drinks&nibbles: Cacio e Pepe Popovers and Rhubarb “Negronis”

3 Smart Points/Cocktail  *  1 Smart Point/Popover

 

Much like The Roman Spring of Mrs. Stone, the current Sarasota Summer of Mr. Brady has seen a Negroni or two. The simple mix of botanical gin, and almost medicinal Campari balanced by the sweetness of good Italian vermouth captivates many. The concoction can, however, seem a bit weighty and too intense to first timers. Making full use of the seasons best produce and with due respect to the original, I offer a fresh lightened up version. Bitter, but slightly sweet rhubarb acts well as a substitute for wicked Campari when an orange skin or two is added. The tricky thing is the bottom of the glass seems to arrive even sooner than when drinking the classic.

 

Inspired by steaming bowls of cacio e pepe from one of Rome’s back-alley trattorias, here the Eternal City’s most notorious pasta transforms into a stellar snack. Cacio e pepe translates to “cheese and pepper,” which is then added to scorching bowls of spaghetti cooked very al dente. Centuries-prized for its simplicity; it remains one of the capital’s great gifts to the hungry. Cute as can be mini-popovers make a precious bite-sized canvas for the robust flavors. Popovers draw fear. A near culinary magic trick, they seem too difficult. Rest assured, by following an easy set of clear steps they are as simple to assemble as the IKEA coffee table you had in college. This recipe is also something to keep in your back pocket. Endlessly adaptable, sub out the Parmigiano and black pepper for gruyère and thyme for an aperitif perfect with a Kir Royal…or perhaps sharp cheddar aside a Manhattan.

 

Cin Cin!

 

Cacio e Pepe Popovers

Makes 24 mini popovers

Per popover: 1 Smart Point

 

2 cloves garlic, peeled

3 large eggs, room temperature

1 cup fat free milk, room temperature

½ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (about 2 ounces)

½ teaspoon coarse kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¾ cup all-purpose flour

 

Place a non-stick 24-count mini muffin tin on the center rack of a cold oven. Preheat the oven and tin to 425 degrees.

Meanwhile, add the garlic and eggs to the jar of a blender and mix at medium speed for 15 second till frothy. Add the milk, cheese, salt, and pepper and continue to blend at medium speed for 10 second more. Finally add the flour and mix again at medium speed for 10 seconds, till just incorporated.

When oven reaches temperature, using a potholder carefully remove the muffin tin. Be sure to close oven door to maintain temperature. Working quickly, squirt each hole with non-stick cooking spray and pour batter directly from the blender jar, nearly to the top of each cup. Carefully, but quickly return the tin to the oven and immediately reduce the temperature to 400 degrees.

DO NOT OPEN OVEN DOOR! Allowing steam to escape will result in un-popped popovers. Instead use oven light (or even shine a flashlight through door, if oven light isn’t working) to check progress.

Allow to bake, undisturbed, until puffed and golden about 20 to 25 minutes. Remove and immediately allow to cool slightly on wire rack. Best served warm immediately from oven, but also delicious at room temperature.

 

Rhubarb “Negroni”

Makes 1 cocktail

Per Negroni: 3 Smart Points

 

1 ounce gin

½ ounce sweet vermouth

½ ounce Rhubarb-Orange Syrup (recipe follows)

Orange peel or slice (optional, for garnish)

 

Mix all ingredients over ice in a short glass and stir well. Garnish with an orange peel or slice.

 

 

Rhubarb-Orange Syrup

Makes 1 cup, serving 16

Per ½ ounce serving: 0 Smart Points

 

1 pound of trimmed rhubarb, chopped

1 thick-skinned (Valencia, Navel) orange, peel only

¼ to ½ cup Stevia in the Raw (check HINT)

 

In a large saucepan, bring the rhubarb, orange peel, Stevia, and 1 cup water to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for 25 minutes or until rhubarb is broken down.

Allow to cool for 5 minutes in pot, then pass through a fine sieve placed over a bowl, pressing solids with a rubber spatula. Discard leftover solids. Stir syrup and allow to full cool, place in an airtight bottle and store in refrigerator for up to a week. Use in cocktails or add to sparkling water.

 

HINT: This syrup is a bit sweet but makes for a refreshing beverage. For a sharper, more bitter drink, reduce the amount of Stevia in the Raw to ¼ cup.